You've seen the photos of Himeji, the White Heron Castle, gleaming against a blue sky. But did you know it's one of only a dozen survivors? Japan once had thousands of castles. Wars, fires, and modernization wiped most out. The 12 original castles are the real deal—their central keeps (tenshu) are original wooden structures dating back to the feudal era, not modern concrete reconstructions. Walking up their steep, dark staircases is stepping directly into the 16th or 17th century. This isn't just a list; it's a practical guide to understanding and visiting these incredible monuments.

What Makes a Castle "Original"?

This is the crucial bit everyone gets wrong. An "original castle" ( genzon tenshu) specifically means the mainkeep's core structure is original, built during the Edo period (1603-1868) or earlier. Many famous "castles" like Osaka or Nagoya are fantastic reconstructions, but they're ferroconcrete replicas built in the 20th century.

The 12 originals have survived earthquakes, fires, and the WWII air raids that targeted many urban castles. Their survival is miraculous. When you visit, you're touching the same wood the samurai touched. The smell is different—old timber and tatami, not new paint. The stairs are worn and uneven. The experience is authentic in a way a museum replica can never be.

I made the mistake on my first trip. I rushed through Hikone Castle, took my photo, and left. I missed the point. Later, at Matsumoto, I spent an hour just looking at the stonework. That's when it clicked.

The Complete List of 12 Original Castles

Here they are, from north to south. This table gives you the hard facts to start planning.

Notice the price variation? The more famous ones (Himeji) cost more, but many are surprisingly affordable. Marugame is a steal at 200 yen.

How to Plan Your Castle Tour

Choosing Your Castles

Pick based on your travel route and interest.

For first-timers with limited time: Himeji is non-negotiable. It's the pinnacle. Pair it with Hikone for a classic contrast—Himeji is grand, Hikone is intimate and has one of Japan's "three great gardens" next door.

For scenery lovers: Matsumoto with the Japanese Alps, or Bitchu Matsuyama in the clouds. Hirosaki in cherry blossom season is unforgettable.

For the off-beat path: Ueda or Maruoka. You might have the place to yourself. I spent a peaceful afternoon at Ueda, and the volunteer guide (a retired local teacher) shared stories you won't find in any guidebook.

Logistics: Tickets, Timing, and Transport

Always check the official website (use Google Translate) for the latest hours and closures. Most open around 9 AM and close between 4 and 5 PM. Last entry is usually 30 minutes before closing.

Buy tickets at the gate; advanced online purchase is rarely needed except maybe for Himeji during peak seasons like Golden Week.

For transport, a Japan Rail Pass can be great for Himeji, Hikone, Matsumoto, and Hirosaki. For others, regional passes (like the Shikoku Rail Pass) or just paying for local trains/buses works. For Bitchu Matsuyama, the journey is part of the adventure—plan a half-day just for it.

Wear easy-to-remove shoes. You'll be taking them off constantly to enter the wooden keeps. Socks are a must.

What to See Beyond the Main Keep

The keep is the star, but the supporting cast is just as important. This is where most visitors rush and miss the depth.

The Stone Walls (Ishigaki): Look closely. The size and cutting of the stones tell a story. Large, finely cut stones (called kiri-komi hagi) near the base show wealth and importance. Rough, uncut stones higher up were for less critical sections. The curved, sloping walls are called ogi no kobai (fan slope)—they're designed to make climbing under fire nearly impossible.

Gates and Turrets (Yagura): These were defensive choke points. The masugata gate system at Himeji, where you have to make two 90-degree turns under fire from overhead turrets, is a masterpiece of defensive design. Spend time here.

The Setting: Is the castle on a hill (yamajiro) like Bitchu Matsuyama, on plains (hirajiro) like Matsumoto, or integrated with water like Matsue? This dictated its entire strategy.

I once followed a Japanese history student around Hikone Castle. He wasn't looking at the keep; he was sketching the angles of the stone bases of the walls. That's the level of detail these places reward.

Your Castle Visit Questions Answered

Let's tackle the practical stuff that keeps popping up.

Visiting these 12 original castles is more than sightseeing. It's a direct link to Japan's samurai past. You're not just learning history; you're standing in the middle of it. Pick one or two that call to you, go slow, and look beyond the postcard view. You'll come away with a much deeper understanding of what these incredible structures were really about: power, defense, and artistry built in wood and stone.